Step-by-step upgrade process.
Bearing Updates
If you have spent any time on the fishing side of the internet, you have likely heard of Spool speed bearings. Some of you older readers might remember Boca bearings. They are still out there, but I don’t see much marketing to the fishing industry any more. You would be hard-pressed to find a company that knows more about bearings than them. But there is something to be said for Spool Speed that is singularly focused on making bearing kits for fishing reels. In my opinion, the main thing that sets them apart is that Boca offers two different levels. The orange seal and the metal shield series. And Spool speed Has at least four different levels, which opens up the market to a broader audience. It is a lot easier to justify spending $ 10.00 bucks on upgrading a $49.00 reel than spending $45 on a complete upgrade on that same reel. In this step-by-step, I will go through all the steps and tools needed to upgrade three principle bearings on a LEWS Tournament MB reel. This reel is about six or seven years old and is well-loved and very heavily used. New this reel is around $139.00.
01. Opening the Side Cover
I Like to lay out a towel or use a cleaning mat or cleaning tray to keep the parts out of the carpet or from rolling under the bench. I am not a monster, so the reel I am working with is a right-handed retrieve. If you are left-handed, my instructions are backward. To start, loosen the tension knob on the side cover until it almost comes off. This will take the pressure off the spool before removing the side cover. Next, pull the silver pin on the top right side of the reel and rotate the left side cover up, or clockwise then remove it. If your spool has line on it, I would recommend securing the line to the spool with tape or a rubber band; It will make re-assembly easier. You can now remove the spool.
02. Changing the Spool Bearing
This next step is the hardest step, the more care you take here, your chances of success are higher. You need to remove the pin highlighted in the picture below.
There is a small side that is about 1.15mm and a larger side that is 1.41mm. You need to push the pin out of the larger side. You will see YouTube videos of folks using pliers to yank this pin out, but I would not recommend that method. It will work, but I have also damaged the shaft of the spool and the pin by doing it that way. If you have it or are willing to buy it, use a brass punch and small armors hammer. Use the brass punch to hammer it down flush to the shaft, then a smaller steel punch to push it out the rest of the way. Do not use the steel punch for the entire thing; it can damage the spool or booger up the pin. Set this tiny pin in a small cup or on the towel.
Before taking the old one off, spin it with your thumb a few times; it will give you a good reference point when you put the new one on. Now take the stock bearing off and toss it. Don’t mix it up with the new one. Put the new bearing on the spool shaft, then put the pin back in. Be sure to insert the skinny side first. Use the brass punch and hammer to put it back in. Don’t go too far. Next, put a tiny drop of a suitable ceramic lube onto the face of the bearing and spin it a few times. Don’t skimp on the lube. When talking about lubricants, you cannot be cheap about it. A tiny bottle may cost you $10.00 or more, but a little goes a long way. You can set the spool aside; you are done with it for now.
03. Changing the Palm Side Cover-plate Spool Bearing
Your mantra on this step is “don’t lose the clip.” You need to remove the bearing retainer clip, and it can shoot out of there like a rocket. It is thin tiny, and impossible to find. So much so that Spool Speed sells them on their site. I have found that the best way to get it out of there is to put your thumb over the hole as much as possible while still being able to see the clip. You could even use a piece of tape if you suffer from fat finger disease. Then use a toothpick or a dental pick to remove the clip by compressing the ring gently. Once you remove it, the bearing should fall right out. Note that on this reel, there is a bearing spacer behind the bearing; don’t lose it and make sure it goes back in. I typically clean it with a dry cloth before putting it back in. Once the spacer and bearing cavity are cleaned with a dry towel or Q-tip, put the spacer back in then the new bearing. Add a drop of the ceramic lube and put the clip back in. the same care putting it back in should be used as when taking it out. Remember, “don’t lose the clip.”
04. Changing the Spool Tension Bearing
To do this step, you may find that it is helpful to remove the reel handle. However, I am lazy and usually do not. I just align the drag wheel so that I can get the tension knob off. Before putting it all back together, the spool tension knob is the final step. Remove the knob and set it aside. The clip that retains the bearing is similar to the one from the last step, but in my opinion, slightly more complicated because of the shape. You will need to find the end of the ring; there is a small bent end that makes it possible to pop it out. Use your thumb or the tape trick to pop it out with the toothpick. I find that if you get the tip of the pick under the end and work it around the perimeter of the cavity, it will come out without too much drama. Once the clip is out, the bearing will pop right out. Clean out the cavity with a Q-tip but be careful not to get any of the cotton stuck in the internal gears. Now just put the new bearing in and put the clip back in. Lube it and put your reel back together. TA DA!! All done!
Conclusion
As you can see by the before and after clip below, the new bearing makes a massive difference in how well the spool free spins. It may take some getting used to, but once you get the hang of it, you will notice a drastic improvement in your casting distance.